From throwaway culture to scalable repair

Repair is more than a practical skill, it is a mindset that challenges today’s throwaway culture. Before mass production, quality and craftsmanship mattered more than the next new trend. Today, the question is being asked once again: can everything be repaired, and how can repair work at scale?

This question was at the heart of a Fashion, Facts and Fun seminar hosted by Business Region Göteborg. At the centre of the discussion was Paul Kerssens, CEO and founder of United Repair Centre (URC), who shared his experience of building large-scale repair hubs across Europe.

Why now?

Repairing textiles and clothing has long been seen as a small-scale activity. But the industry is now facing growing pressure from several directions. EU legislation is driving the shift towards more circular business models, while consumer demand for services that extend product lifespans continues to grow. In a 2025 Swedish survey by Novus and Reclaimit, 81 per cent of respondents said they would rather repair a product than buy a new one. When asked which types of products they would consider repairing, 36 per cent mentioned clothing and footwear.

Paul Kerssens believes this signals a turning point for the industry.

This is the moment when demand and supply are starting to meet. Previously, there were either innovators without a market, or brands without scalable solutions. That is changing, and repair is beginning to gain real traction.

The myth of expensive repairs

One of the most common objections to large-scale repair is that it is simply too expensive. According to Paul Kerssens, however, this perception is often based on outdated assumptions about the economics of repair.

“Obviously, it costs money. But if you look at the opportunity cost, it's actually much more cost-effective than many other solutions.”

According to data from United Repair Centre, repairing products can be 10–40 per cent cheaper for brands than replacing items in warranty and returns cases. At the same time, repair services can reduce customer service costs while creating new revenue streams through paid repairs and the resale of refurbished products.

But the business value also extends beyond direct revenue. When products stay in use for longer, carbon emissions, waste and water consumption are reduced, while customer relationships become stronger.

People who use circular services have a 50–75 per cent higher repurchase intention compared with those who don´t. And the customer lifetime value of customers using these services can be up to four times higher, Paul Kerssens explained.

Scaling repair

For repair to work at larger volumes, new processes, logistics systems and ways of thinking about products throughout their lifecycle are needed. Based on his experience, Paul Kerssens believes it is often best to start gradually. 

“We usually begin with a pilot project in one country or within a specific product category. Once we have proven that it works, we expand to another country. Taking it step by step is crucial to scaling successfully.”

Standardisation is another important factor. When brands establish well-defined routines for sorting, inspection, repair materials and quality assessment, it becomes possible to manage larger volumes efficiently. Future repair operations are also expected to make greater use of AI to determine whether products should be repaired, refurbished, resold or recycled.

The repair process itself will always be mostly manual. But everything surrounding that manual work can be automated and made more efficient, 

said Paul Kerssens.

Scaling is not only about systems, technology and logistics. It is also about people. As the fashion and textile industry has evolved, and throwaway culture has become more widespread, much of the knowledge and expertise required for repair has been lost. The industry therefore needs to nurture a new generation of repair professionals, supported by clear training pathways and the specialist skills needed for the future.

At the same time, local repair hubs can create jobs close to both brands and consumers while raising the profile of tailors, seamstresses and other craft professions. These occupations have always played a vital role in mending, yet they have rarely featured in the industry’s innovation narrative.

“The most honest circular story is told through repair, by showcasing the people behind the work and recognising their craftsmanship,” said Paul Kerssens.

From repair data to better design

For more products to be repairable, they also need to be designed with repair in mind from the very beginning. During the seminar, Anna Lidström, Senior Lecturer at the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, highlighted early product design decisions as an important piece of the puzzle.

Paul Kerssens agreed:

“By tracking every fault and defect in garments and collecting the information in a digital platform, we can identify patterns and help brands improve their designs or detect recurring issues.”

He also pointed to practical solutions that could make life easier for the textile repair professionals of the future:

“Much like jackets often come with spare buttons, we could include an extra piece of outer fabric inside the pocket. That way, we would have the exact right material available for repairs even ten years later.”

The discussion on design naturally led to the question of repair as a creative expression. Creative repair does not hide damage; instead, it embraces it as a visible and intentional part of a garment’s continued story and design.

“If a garment develops a tear or a stain, we can choose to see it as an opportunity to create something entirely new. Those who are skilled at this have developed distinctive design languages that would not exist without the need for repair,” said Anna Lidström.

She continued:

“There is definitely a business case for creative repair. A garment that was destined for disposal can, with the right design work, achieve a completely different value. But then the offer is no longer just an invisible repair – it becomes a design identity.”

Western Sweden’s textile heritage

Textiles have long played an important role in Western Sweden. From small-scale spinning mills and weaving workshops in Dalsland to workwear production and the textile and garment industry that has shaped the Sjuhärad region.

Textiles have long played an important role in Western Sweden. From small-scale spinning mills and weaving workshops in Dalsland to workwear production and the textile and garment industry that has shaped the Sjuhärad region. 

Today, the region is home to research, testing facilities and extensive industry expertise, while strong craft traditions continue to thrive. At the same time, new capabilities are emerging in areas such as material innovation, textile waste management and circular business models.

It is both exciting and encouraging that the expertise and systems are already here. It gives us breadth, specialist knowledge and a deep understanding of our history,

said Matilda Lindvall, Business developer at at Business Region Göteborg.

Throughout the seminar, there was a clear sense of curiosity and a willingness to share knowledge across the value chain. For future repair systems to scale successfully, design, technology and business development must come together and grow in partnership.