Producer responsibility and the growing textile transition

France has built one of Europe’s most advanced producer responsibility systems for textiles. In a conversation about producer responsibility with policy expert Laura Ducoulombier, it becomes clear how quickly the transition is moving – and which challenges now shape the sector.

The story so far

France’s EPR system for textiles and footwear has evolved step by step over the past 15 years. The model has moved from a financial system with limited support for the value chain to today’s more operational structure, where Refashion plays a central role. Legislation is tightening at both French and EU level. The recently adopted Waste Framework Directive introduces new requirements – including for e‑commerce actors, micro‑enterprises and voluntary modulation of fees linked to product durability.

Experience & Impact

The sector is under significant pressure. Collection volumes are rising quickly, while sorting capacity is strained. In 2023, 268,000 tonnes of textiles and footwear were collected through contracted operators, equal to 31 percent of the volumes placed on the market. Most sorting takes place in France, but 15 percent is handled abroad. Eco‑modulations are increasingly used to drive sustainable design, improved material choices and higher repairability. The goals towards 2028 are ambitious: 60 percent collection, 80 percent recycling of non‑reusable textiles, and a substantial increase in repair and local reuse.

60 %

collection of products put on the market in 2028
237 M€

of eco-modulations on the 2023–2028 period
+35%

reparation by 2028

Results and next steps

The system is at an important renegotiation phase. Three issues dominate the discussion:

1

Full national coverage

A broader operational mandate is needed to ensure consistent handling across the country.
2

Mandatory agreements

Today, actors can collect textiles without signing an agreement with the producer organisation, which creates major data gaps.
3

Funding for recycling

A key debate is whether EPR funding should also support recycling – not only collection and sorting.
4

Collection volumes are expected to continue rising towards 2028, while new channels and new infrastructure must be established in parallel.

Join our textile & fashion network

The insights above summarize key takeaways from Fashion, Facts & Fun #14. If you want to keep up with upcoming EU requirements and the rapid shifts in the textile and fashion sector, join our Textile & Fashion Network.

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Re_fashion

Refashion is a national system in which fashion companies finance the management of their products’ lifecycle – from design to recycling. It is often highlighted as a model when the EU develops policies for circular textiles.

Textile Movement

Textile Movement, based in West Sweden, unites designers, innovators, and brands to drive the circular transition in fashion and textiles – making sustainability simple, inspiring change, and leading Europe toward a circular future.